Post Posted: Sun Sep 18, 2016 11:29 pm
 Subject: Little Mountain Climb 4000'

Did a quick 80 mile run sea-level to 4200'

I'm reasonably pleased with performance but I've been running the IntelaJet much leaner than I would have thought I should. At about 3000' I had it turned to almost full lean. At 4000' it was fully lean.

I will say that the bike ran about 5MPH faster on the long up hill about 2500 - 4200' over 10 miles, than it has in the past with less throttle. I was using about 80% throttle vs the 100% that I'm used to using. I did experience some stumbles at full throttle until the control was set to full lean.

The down-hill back to sea-level I did return to a richer mixture and the bike ran fine. Not noticeable better or worse ... but down a 6% grade for 20ish miles. not a whole lot of room to check. I'll reserve judgement on if I'm happy or not when I get fuel later this week and check the milage.

Thursday I'm headed to the desert for a test rally. 2.5 days should give me a feel for how the bike will run long term.
Post Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 4:18 pm
 Subject: 1st Test Ride

I made a short test run of about 20 miles. It's pretty easy to tune. I started with the unit set to "rich" and had good performance on the street but I wasn't able to get the throttle open.

On the freeway traffic was pretty heavy so finding a spot to open the throttle took a bit but once I did. Almost immediately noticed a stumble and started turning the control to lean. My speed increased smoothly and consistently until I needed to roll off the throttle and start over ... I really don't need a ticket. I finally rotated the control lean until the acceleration stop and more throttle didn't provide more forward motion. ? turn back toward rich and I exited the freeway to ensure the midrange was good. It was good. solid pull from ? to ? throttle.

I'm a bit surprised at how lean the control is set with a #100 main jet. It makes me wonder how much adjustment I'll have at altitude. That test well be done in a couple of weeks.
Post Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2016 11:05 pm
 Subject: Ready to test

The install is complete. The idle is good and I've got no interference when the handlebars go lock to lock. Tomorrow I'll take for a test run and see if I can get the tuning figured out.

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1373953825965244&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1373953825965244&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]
Post Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2016 2:38 pm
 Subject: Step 4 - Take back apart

mistake #(I've lost count) - test fill the carburetors with fuel before you install them. You guessed correctly ... leaky float bowl gasket on the right Carb.

On the bright side it all sounded good before I realized I'd need to take it apart.
Post Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2016 6:01 pm
 Subject: Step 3 - Mounting

After some cussing and blood was given to the project, I was able to get the entire assembly installed. It wasn't easy by any stretch of the imagination. The airbus got hung up on the shock mount and the carbs hung up on wiring and frame. With one big push everything moved enough that it cleared all the interference.

In the end the installation is pretty tidy ... once everything is put back together it'll be difficult to tell that it's installed. here are a couple of photos.

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1365973406763286&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1365973563429937&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1365973926763234&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1365973926763234&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]
Post Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 2:42 pm
 Subject: Step 2 - Trial and Error

Well mostly error. The installation is proceeding slowly after several mistakes.

Mistake #1 - the fuel hoes's are small and kink fairly easily. This can be remedied fairly easily by using relatively long lengths of tube and ensuring that the bend radius is large. due to the longer length I decided to use the check valves to ensure consistent fuel delivery. Yes I made one tube much too short.

Mistake #2 - the check valves are relatively fragile (with side pressure) and the fuel tube once installed is not removable. If you attempt to pull the tube from the valve you will break the valve. Grumble ... placed an order for a replacement.

Mistake #3 - the kit includes enough fuel tube protection sleeving to complete the job ... unless you cut the pieces too short. Another order for a replacement sleeving.

So I'm waiting on parts to arrive but everything is pretty much ready to install.

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1361000587260568&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

The carbs and airbox need to be installed as an assembly. I'll need to keep these clean, taking them out is a bit more complicated than before.

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1361000417260585&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

I've also started looking at the control mounting locations. My favorite so far is attached to the GPS arm screw. it's the closest point to the head stock which will minimize movement of the hose.
Post Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 9:09 pm
 Subject: Installation 2nd Attempt

After rethinking this the Bell Mouth is really the location that the Fuel Feeds can be installed.

The air-box boot spring clamps need to be replaced with a 57mm flat band clamp that is able to be drilled. The clamp will ensure a seal on the boot and provide additional stability for the fuel feed body. Threaded hose clamps won't really be as effective so I made a quick trip to my neighborhood motorcycle shop and sent a 30 minutes digging through the parts bin until I came up with something that would work.

After installing the spare boots and the flat band clamps, drilling and tapping was fairly easy and the fuel feed bodies screwed in nicely. [img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1354062901287670&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

as can be seen the feed tube is a bit long 50mm total. I ended shortening them by 4mm with a disk sander. I'm happy with this installation. [img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1354063127954314&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img] [img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1354063314620962&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

Add 57mm flat band clamps to things you need before you start.

The big challenge now is how to install the carbs with the boots as a unit on the bike. The bike is due for a service which is why i'm doing this install now since i'll be doing a UNI-Trak service and will have the back end off. I'm guessing this is the only way to get everything in as a unit.

I'm still waiting on the jets and several other minor parts to come in, so it'll be a few days before i can make progress. I also want to install the fuel check valves since the fuel tubes will be different lengths ... should be just a minor delay.
Post Posted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 8:33 pm
 Subject: Installation 1st Attempt

Installation forward of the bell mouth is a bad idea. The carb body is angled here enough that there are no single threads that go all the way around the installation hole. As a result the fuel feeder wasn't able to tighten against the carb body and it certainly won't go in straight.

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1354062227954404&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

I took a day to patch the hole with JB Weld.
Post Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 2:44 pm
 Subject: Before You Start

Step 1, was really step 2. Before you start you have to figure out how to mount the injectors.

Float bowl fuel feed - this is probably the easiest decision to make. Option 3 and 4 (instructions) are really the only options for the CVK-30's.

The IntelaJet has a vacuum operated fuel feed. Because of this the system will operate best if the fuel feeds are close to the same length.

Option 3 - Replaces the drain screw with a brass fitting. This is the cleanest and easiest option to install. the disadvantage is that the drain screw exits the float bowl a forward direction and to the right on both float bowls. What this means is that the fuel feed for both carb bodies will need to located in similar places.

Option 4 - Adds a fuel feed by tapping a hole in the bottom of the float bowl. This option should provide more options in the placement of the fuel feed for the carb body.

I've opt'd for Option 3 ... if it doesn't work out I'll move to Option 4.

Installation of the fuel feed - ok this is going to be a bit tricker, there's not a lot of room to mount these. the mount must be on the air intake side. the top and bottom of the air intake are used by the carburetor so they are not available. [img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1351905214836772&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

Carb Bell Mouth Mounting - This mounting position isn't really an option as the frame sits directly over the air-boot - bell mouth. There is room for the fuel feed body under the frame but it would be difficult if not impossible to install the unit while the carb was installed.

Air Boot mounting - There is a lot of room for installation here. Just need to take the airbox out, install the fuel feed body pop the whole assembly back in and hook it up.

1st problem with this plan. None of the items that facilitate an air boot installation are included in the twin carb IntelaJet kit. Nylon lock nut, stability washer and cutting tool ... not included.

2nd problem with this plan. The fuel feed tube is too long and will actually not insert all the way without jamming against the opposite boot wall.

Need to make a call the Thunder Products. things that I learned on the call:
1. the system will work better the closer the fuel feed is to the slide.
2. the fuel feed tube length can be adjusted using a disk sander and care (this will be required).

The result is that I've decided to attempt to make the installation on the carb body forward of the bell mouth at the 3 O'Clock position. For both Carb bodies. I'm not entirely sure that there is room in between the carbs for the #1 carb. but a loose test fit indicates there might be. another potential issue with this position is that the path for both the fuel and air tubes is pretty tight. We'll see if it works.
Post Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 1:56 pm
 Subject: Step 1 - Clean & Order Parts

The first thing that needs to be done is the carburetors need to be cleaned. You'll probably need to take them apart anyway so get them clean while it's easy.

The main jet needs to be reduced, since we'll be adding a second main fuel feed. The instructions suggest that reducing 2-3 sizes is a good starting point. When I spoke with Thunder Products they suggested that reducing 5 sizes has been successful for others. I've ordered both #100 and #102's. I'll start with the #100's and we'll see what happens.

Additonally, the older CVK-30's have a course thread drain screw, the IntelaJet kit comes with a fine thread drain screw. Course thread drain screws are available from Thunder Products so those are on order as well.

The other items that I needed to order were related to the carbs being old. O-rings and a couple of screws that had stripped heads.

Post Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 9:58 am
 Subject: Installation Instructions

I should mention that the instructions that come with the system are fairly simple (not in a good way). They are really designed to keep people form doing something stupid and trying to pin it on the manufacturer. Unfortunately that means that you really don't have all the information that you need to get the installation right. On the plus side Thunder Products phone support is great! If you call them they'll talk you any questions you may have.

What's in the box?
[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1351711228189504&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1351722161521744&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

Installation 2
[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1351723834854910&set=a.1351712094856084.1073741834.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

Installation 3
[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1351727391521221&set=a.1351711038189523.1073741833.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]

Installation 4
[img] https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1351726654854628&set=a.1351711038189523.1073741833.100000519207115&type=3&theater [/img]
Post Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 9:19 am
 Subject: IntelaJet

IBR 2017. I've made the decision to add an IntelaJet to the 2003 EX250. I wanted to create a thread that chronicles the installation process and maybe get some other ideas on the install.

If you're interested in the product it's manufactured by Thunder Products.https://thunderproducts.com

I'm hoping to correct the poor performance that plagued me in both 2013 and 2015 in the western mountain states (i.e. lack of power and poor fuel milage.) when running above 5000 feet altitude. Lets' face facts the little 250 is down on power already, having it go to complete crap because i've jetted for sea level is severely limiting my bonus opportunities. That and having my fuel milage drop into the low 50's blows any kind of advantage the 250 was providing in the first place.

To facilitate the installation process (and in the event that I screw it up), I've purchased an old set of carbs and air-box boots. any mistakes I make I can at least get everything back to stock.

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